A $20 thrift store mirror can end up looking like it belongs in a chic Parisian apartment once it’s gilded. Gilding a mirror is the sort of upgrade that makes people ask where you found the piece, not what you did to it. The process does involve a lot of steps, but each one is simple on its own. Plus, the payoff is a frame with so much richness that no can of spray paint will ever convince you. Here’s the full process so nothing gets missed!
What You’ll Need
Before you start, gather your materials so you’re not stopping mid-project to run to the craft store:
- A mirror with a wood, plaster, resin, or composite frame (avoid gilding directly onto glass or metal without additional prep)
- Fine sandpaper (220 and 400 grit)
- Gesso or a bonding primer
- Gilder’s size (water-based size is easier for beginners; oil-based size gives you more working time and a slightly more durable bond)
- Genuine or composition gold leaf, either loose sheets or transfer sheets
- A soft gilder’s brush or a wide, clean, soft-bristled paintbrush
- A gilder’s tip (optional, but helpful for loose leaf)
- A soft cotton cloth or gilder’s mop for burnishing
- A sealant such as shellac or a water-based acrylic topcoat
- Painter’s tape and plastic sheeting to protect the mirror glass
Genuine gold leaf is thin, delicate, and won’t tarnish, which makes it the better choice for a piece you want to keep for decades.
Composition leaf or imitation gold leaf (also called Dutch metal) costs much less and looks nearly identical once sealed, so it’s a smart pick for practice runs or budget projects.
Step 1: Prep the Frame
Remove the mirror from the frame if you can. It’s not mandatory, but it gives you far more control and takes the glass out of the danger zone entirely.
If it won’t come out, mask the glass off completely with painter’s tape and plastic sheeting before you do anything else.
- Wipe the frame down to clear dust and grease
- Sand away old varnish or chipped paint with 220-grit paper until the surface is even
- Wipe off sanding dust with a tack cloth
- Fill any cracks or gouges with wood or plaster filler, then let repairs dry fully and sand them flush
Step 2: Apply Gesso
Gesso gives the size something smooth and even to grip.
Brush on two to three thin coats, sanding lightly with 400-grit paper between each one, and let every coat dry completely before moving to the next. Rushing this part is the most common reason gilding looks patchy later, so don’t skip the drying time.
Once the last coat is dry and sanded, wipe the frame clean again.
Some gilders add a colored undercoat, called a bole, usually in red or yellow ochre. It peeks through the tiny gaps between leaf sheets and gives the finished gold a warmer glow. Optional, but worth the extra half hour.
Step 3: Apply the Size
Size is the glue that holds the leaf in place. Brush it on in one direction, in a thin, even layer, so it doesn’t pool in grooves or carved details.
| Size type | Time to reach tack | Working window |
| Water-based | 15–30 minutes | A few hours |
| Oil-based | 8–12 hours | Much longer once ready |
To test readiness, touch the size lightly with a knuckle. It should feel sticky but not come off on your skin. Too wet, wait longer. Dried out completely, brush on a fresh layer.
Step 4: Apply the Gold Leaf
This is the part that scares people off, but a steady hand and some patience carry you through it.
Loose leaf: Brush the gilder’s tip against your cheek or hair to build a slight static charge, then use it to lift a sheet and drape it onto the tacky size, edge first, rather than pressing it down all at once.
Transfer leaf: Much easier for a first attempt. Each sheet is backed with tissue, so you press the whole thing onto the size, rub the back gently, and peel the backing away.
Work in small sections and overlap each new piece by about an eighth of an inch. Gold leaf is thin enough that any gap or tear will show through to the size underneath, so the overlap matters more than it might seem.
Once a section is covered, brush the leaf gently into carved details and sweep away the loose flakes (called skewings) with a soft brush. Save those flakes: they’re useful for patching gaps later.
Step 5: Burnish and Patch
Let the leaf set for a few hours, then go over it with a soft cotton cloth or gilder’s mop to burnish it. This presses the leaf firmly into the size, smooths out wrinkles, and brings out the shine.
Check the frame under good light for gaps, tears, or thin spots where the bole or size shows through. Patch these with saved skewings, adding a touch more size first if the original layer has already dried.
Step 6: Seal the Gold Leaf
Unsealed gold leaf scratches and flakes easily, and composition leaf will tarnish if left exposed.
Two solid options:
- Shellac: Dries fast, but adds a faint amber tint
- Water-based acrylic sealant: Keeps the gold’s true color, no tint shift
Brush on the sealant in thin, even coats with a light hand. Pressing too hard can lift or scratch the leaf before it’s protected. Let it cure fully per the product instructions before handling the frame.
Tips for a Smoother Gilding Process
- Work somewhere with stable humidity and no drafts. A stray breeze can send loose leaf flying or dry the size unevenly.
- Keep your hands clean and dry. Skin oils interfere with adhesion.
- Practice on a scrap frame first if you’ve never worked with loose leaf before.
- Use strong, direct lighting to catch gaps before you seal them in for good.
- Watch the size’s tack window closely. Applying leaf too early or too late is the single biggest reason gilding turns out uneven.
Bringing It All Together
Gilding rewards patience more than skill. Each stage builds on the last, so the care you put into sanding and priming shows up later in how clean and even the gold looks.
Once the sealant cures, you’ll have a frame with real shimmer and depth. Your finished project catches your eye from across the room and still holds up when you look closely.
There truly is nothing like it!
